1. The tank
Bare bottom or large smooth pebbles, never gravel. Heaters and thermometers go in a sump, where a big fish cannot break them. Adults want open space more than decoration.
2. The water
Cold is harm, not a setting: a heater failure is an emergency. Low oxygen kills quietly, and a fish that is not gasping can still be short of it.
3. Feeding
Build the diet on white fish such as cod, pollock, flounder and mullet. Herring, anchovy and shrimp are treats only, because they destroy vitamin B1. No feeder fish, no beef heart or chicken. A redtail always acts hungry, so its begging tells you nothing.
4. Health
Most problems trace back to the water or the food. Torn fins heal on their own; an infection at the base of the tail does not wait. Let a new fish settle for a day or two before treating anything.
5. Tankmates
Big doradids, arapaima and pacu work. Anything that fits in a redtail's mouth is food. Other redtails are territorial, but adults often tolerate smaller ones.
Behavior and tankmates, in full
6. Plan for the adult
The juvenile in the store is the smallest this fish will ever be. Have the adult tank planned, or built, before it outgrows the first one, and if life changes, rehome it to a keeper with the space.

